Once war-torn Sarajevo is now well on the road to recovery. The city split by the piddling Miljacka River and surrounded by the epic Dinaric Alps has returned to its pre-Balkan war status of bustling metropolitan hive. And yet, the evidence of the longest siege in the history of modern warfare (nearly 4 years) only a decade ago, is readily apparent to the observant traveler. Down trodden amputees and beggars abound in the streets, many buildings are riddled with bullet holes and UN vehicles  more...